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"Inside the Manufactory's more casual side, I was taken with a big, easygoing cafe where bread rules supreme, and on the right night the place can feel like it lives up to its lofty (and lively) expectations. At dinner the ubiquitous bread plate—a thick hunk of Tartine’s country loaf, a wedge of long‑fermented sesame bread and a tender oat porridge sourdough—arrives paired with tangy eggplant dip, a creamy butter bean hummus and a sublime bowl of buttery, peppery warm ricotta; here the bread plate is perhaps the whole point of dinner. On quieter weekday evenings the Row can come off like a “semi‑private compound for the ‘creative class,’” and reservations rarely seem required outside the Friday–Saturday rush. There's a lot to like on the menu as well, including a pretty special patty melt for lunch, and large‑format dishes shine: a slow‑cooked lamb shank that's blissfully tender and stewy; a whole Thai snapper in a lightly spicy batter that's phenomenally crisp and moist; and an almond wood‑fired rotisserie chicken that's crisp‑skinned and smoky in the best backyard‑barbecue way." - Farley Elliott