

16

"With its window-lined dining room, serene koi pond at the entrance, dramatic artwork, and contemporary chandeliers, this spot makes a stunning impression, even from its less-than-glamorous location hidden within a Falls Church office park. Under longtime chef Bertrand Chemel, I look to the kitchen for soups, game meats, pastas, and fish, with a menu that typically changes at the start of every month to showcase fleeting seasonal ingredients—from morel mushrooms in the spring to tomatoes in the summer; on a recent August visit I enjoyed an elegant gazpacho and a delicate lobster pasta complemented by cherry tomatoes. If soft shell crabs are ever on the menu, I order them. The $130 Chef’s Tasting Menu is worth the splurge and doesn’t skimp on luxury ingredients like wagyu and caviar, while the à la carte menu is an excellent, less spendy alternative. I recommend it for classy date nights (there’s no official jackets-required code, but patrons tend to dress up) and private events, with the bar a welcome option for more spontaneous visits. To keep tabs on frequent special dinners highlighting individual ingredients or rare winemakers, I sign up for the mailing list; wine pairings run $85." - Missy Frederick