Il Milanese Ristorante

Inside Parkside restaurant in North Center | Eater Chicago

"Opened by Rebecca Goldfarb across the street from her gourmet grocer L&M Fine Foods in the former Monty Gaels space overlooking Welles Park, this restaurant offers a playful take on modern American fare driven by chef Justin Kaialoa’s whimsical, ingredient-forward cooking. Kaialoa — whose résumé includes the Bristol and the Violet Hour — emphasizes high-quality, often local sources (produce from Mick Klug and Nichols farms, Lusty Monk mustards, Anson Mills grains) and has built a notable cheese program that spotlights American cheeses. Menu highlights include a tea-smoked Cornish hen brined in sweet tea, smoked with applewood and grilled on Japanese charcoal, snacks like pork coppa, and inventive vegetarian charcuterie such as a carrot pâté with the texture of chicken mousse; east- and west-coast oysters add a downtown-style offering to the neighborhood. The space has been modernized with a 50-bottle wine list, draft beer collaborations with Bold Dog and Empirical, and a cocktail program developed by Robert Shamblin; the cooking is not fine-dining twee but pays close attention to presentation. The restaurant aims to be neighborhood-friendly (and eventually will add weekend brunch when staffing allows) while filling a gap left by nearby cocktail bars, and reservations are available via Resy." - Ashok Selvam