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"In Hayes Valley, Le Fantastique is a new fish‑and‑wine bar from the Bird Dog team where chef Robbie Wilson treats raw fish as his preferred method and has expanded that single course into a full experience. The menu runs seven or eight Pacific fishes from the lightest fluke to the fattiest salmon, and the kitchen uses a temperature‑controlled room where fish hang tail‑up until they reach a “toothsome” texture. Techniques include dipping trout in beeswax and folding it into a tart sorrel leaf, and encasing opah in animal fat to age for two months into a ham‑like product finished with smoked vinegar; knife work is finer and citrus arrives as droplets or atomizers. Diners often order every plate, and those who start with a few frequently come back for more." - Becky Duffett