"Head chef Varun Totlani joined a coastal harvest to source seaweed for integration into traditional dishes, seeking a diversity of species—spatoglossum (noted for tasting like raw mango), two kinds of sargassum, sea grapes, and more bitter varieties—to experiment with in his kitchen. His use of ingredients extends to delicate components recovered during processing: tender air bladders collected with a sieve are “used in Totlani’s kitchen as seaweed ‘caviar’.” For transit-sensitive items like spatoglossum, an insulated bag kept in seawater has been used to retain the distinct raw-mango flavor the producers have worked to preserve for over two years." - Emily Venezky