Chicago Chef Mari Katsumura Comes Into Her Own at Yugen | Eater

"Opened in November in the former fine-dining space, this Japanese fine‑dining restaurant is the chef’s first project rooted explicitly in her Japanese‑American heritage and reflects her personal vision. The restaurant operates as a two‑concept format with a fixed‑price tasting room and a more casual, izakaya‑inspired front room, both fed by the same kitchen. The menu emphasizes Japanese techniques and flavors while incorporating pointedly Midwestern ingredients — a signature example is the Japanese curry adapted from the chef’s family recipe, finished with Nichols Farm potato and parsnip, braised beef cheek from Schlegel Farms, aerated foam, puff pastry, curry carrot dust, and parsley oil. The dining room was reimagined with a zen aesthetic: charcoal‑stained wood instead of white tablecloths, jewel‑toned walls, and soft, organic lighting (some expensive chairs from the prior occupant remain). An all‑female leadership team runs front‑ and back‑of‑house, and the chef stresses a hands‑on, less militaristic kitchen culture while aiming to broaden diners’ expectations of Japanese cuisine beyond sushi and to surprise guests in a thoughtful way." - Grace Perry