The 38 Best Restaurants in Sydney, Australia - Eater

"In 2010, a wave of acclaimed young chefs reimagined what a cooking career could be. Names-to-watch like Dan Hong (Ms. G’s), Claire Van Vuuren (Bloodwood), and Mitch Orr (Duke Bistro) proved you could play loud hip-hop, drizzle Kewpie mayo, or serve tater tots and still score a good restaurant review. At Kiln, which opened in October 2022 with quietly entrancing 18th-floor views, Orr slings snacks on Jatz crackers (a signature flex from his days at Acme). But he also puts in a lot of hidden work. For his tartlets, for example, golden beets are roasted in thyme, garlic, and vinegar, and left on Kiln’s showpiece grill to develop a smoke-kissed chew. Then they’re chopped and loaded in pastry shells with chives, verjus, and goat’s curd for maximum payoff. It’s just one way Kiln smartly uses its hearth, as wood and smoke light up menus across Sydney." - Lee Tran Lam