"A restless, modern-American kitchen from a chef who returned to New England, offering a small, inventive menu that showcases seafood and vegetables with an acute sense of place: techniques include open-fire light dehydration for smoky tomato tarts and sashimi-grade bluefin presented with Japanese accents like dashi and pickled wakame; overall, the cooking resists easy categorization while demonstrating strong technique and creativity." - Bill Addison