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"Operating on the corner of 12th Avenue and Jackson in the Chinatown-International District, Chef Ye (Aifang Ye) runs Happy Food largely by herself, greeting customers with an exuberant smile, taking orders, cooking, serving and cleaning despite limited English. A native of Taizhou who learned cooking from her mother and had mastered zongzi by age 10, she brought decades of home- and factory-cafeteria experience to this affordable spot she opened at the end of 2023. The simple, understated menu can be hard to parse for diners who don’t read Chinese characters, but the food is reliably delicious: stir-fried green beans bright with the punch of ya cai, fish filets in a fragrant house-made scallion oil that makes people reach for more rice, rustic cabbage served plain or with vinegar, and a popular braised pork intestine dish—cut large for extra chewiness and mixed with meaty King oyster mushrooms and adjustable spiciness. Ye also enthusiastically shows dishes not always listed, like pumpkin mantou and dumplings with mugwort in the wrappers and zesty pork-and-vegetable filling. Regulars keep coming back, many saying they feel at home whether they’re from Taiwan, Hong Kong or Shanghai; the place has a true home-style vibe, reasonable prices and a warm welcome, and Ye says simply, “Anyone can come in and really enjoy the food. Having people enjoy it brings me happiness. I have passion for it.”" - Jay Friedman