"I hadn’t been since the death of its founder in March 2022, and when I returned there was no line out front and empty tables inside while three employees moved behind the counter assembling and baking pies. In the ’90s I remembered Dom DeMarco as a one-man performance—yanking pies from the oven to add extra cheese or torn basil from a potted plant—but that theatrical presence is gone; nonetheless the counter still holds Dom’s oil pitcher, a basket of basil leaves, and a tub of grated cheese like a still-life memorial. We bought single slices rather than a whole pie—a plain cheese Neapolitan slice ($5) and a Sicilian square ($6); both were good, with the Neapolitan notably crisper and less cheesy with slightly chunkier tomato sauce, and the Sicilian a bready, meal-sized slice with a supremely crisp bottom crust and a lush quantity of crushed tomatoes. Visiting the pizzeria still feels like a pilgrimage to an important monument in the city’s pizza history." - Robert Sietsema