"Florent Ladeyn’s modern Flemish canteen occupies a converted carpenter’s workshop in Vieux-Lille, with an atmosphere that feels like a cross between a loft and a beer garden — metallic beams, exposed brick, and rustic wood surfaces — pairing casual conviviality with serious technique. The kitchen focuses exclusively on ingredients sourced within a roughly 30-mile radius, producing inventive regional dishes such as pork shoulder yakitori, creamy pollack rillettes with endive and jus mousse, mackerel with celery and chervil in a buttermilk-and-leek oil sauce, and buckwheat-salted caramel cream puffs; out-of-range products like olive oil, chocolate, and citrus are intentionally excluded, and chicory is used in place of coffee, even in a chicory Irish coffee." - Lindsey Tramuta