Ghee Wynwood doesn't live up to the original - Review - Miami - The Infatuation
"The original Ghee in Kendall has been Miami’s best Indian restaurant since it opened in 2017. So when this Wynwood location sprung up, we were grateful to once again have Ghee’s turmeric-marinated fish east of I-95. But the Ghee classics we fell in love with in Kendall aren’t executed at the same level here. photo credit: Ghee Wynwood The menu splits between tried-and-true Ghee curries, naan, and snacks, as well as new dishes exclusive to Wynwood, like mushroom momos and kebabs. Neither category reaches the level of excitement we’ve come to expect from this kitchen. That turmeric-marinated fish is a touch overcooked, the tuna bhel is light on the ruby red chunks of yellowfin it’s usually adorned with, and the new additions to the menu don’t taste destined to become Ghee classics themselves. Beyond the food, it’s tough to feel at ease in the dining room, something you’ll crave after thwacking through Wynwood to get here. The lighting’s too bright and the tables are pushed so close together that your butt may graze a neighbor’s naan as you shimmy out on the way to the bathroom. That’s not to say there’s no value in coming here. Even a woozy version of Ghee is still a fine pick for a casual dinner, and the $24 lunch special—which comes with a naan, salad, rice, curry, and dessert—is one of the city’s best deals. For now, daytime meals are the safest bet. The thinner crowds ensure the dining room is less claustrophobic and service runs smoothly, which isn't always the case during a busier weekend dinner. Food Rundown video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Backyard Pakora This dish is exclusive to the Wynwood location and a hopeful sign of potential. Taro from Ghee’s own farm gets rolled into a tight spiral, fried until crisp, and paired with a sweet date chutney you’ll use every molecule of. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Chili Paneer Ghee knows how to unload enough spice to make you sweat (see the ghost pepper naan below). So we expect more of a punch from a dish that starts with the word chili. Still, you’ll happily finish the small cubes of cheese, which taste better stuffed into the pakora. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Mushroom Momo This is another dish exclusive to this location. But don’t let the six, perfectly fine dumplings distract you from the more reliable favorites. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Ghost Pepper Cheddar Naan Here’s something that hasn’t changed: Ghee’s ghost pepper naan has hallucinogenic levels of spice. We mean that as a compliment. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Shrimp Tandoori Four shrimp. Good shrimp. But four shrimp. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Turmeric Marinated Fish This is always the entree to prioritize at Ghee. Even if it does arrive a touch overcooked, the coconut curry saves it. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Smoked Lamb Neck When we've eaten this dish at the original Ghee, the lamb is so soft it detaches from its bone with the gentlest little hummingbird nudge from a fork. But, here, ours took some serious sawing and hacking to get at the smoky lamb." - Ryan Pfeffer
