"Baso feels moody and primal thanks to its open-fire kitchen, and the tartare here is no different. The Basque restaurant subs in an earthy, rich cut of venison for beef, tosses in some flame-smoked deer heart, and balances it out with a pepper punch of fresh nasturtium and crunchy smashed sunflower. It somehow marries the Cro-Magnon grunt of “Fire, good,” with delicate styling and fresh flowers. And to that, we raise a glass of funky Spanish wine. How to get in: Plenty of reservations are open at 5pm or 9pm, but for prime-time seating, you have to plan at least a week, if not two, in advance. It's easier to find a walk-in spot at the kitchen counter." - chelsea thomas, gianni greene