"On any warm evening, the sidewalk and entire dead-end street surrounding Le Vin Sur La Main are filled with mismatched vintage chairs and tables. Marseillais arrive by bikes, sometimes with their dogs, pulling up for a glass. It’s not uncommon to hear English, and if you’re sitting inside—a shoebox with rough stone walls, soft bossa nova, and low lighting—you’ll likely make new friends. Wines are all €8 by the glass or from €20 per bottle, and everything is natural and from Provence. The short food menu always has fish (from the market at Vieux Port) and vegetables (from an urban farm in the 14th arr.), in dishes like mullet crudo with garden peas and rhubarb. You can pay by card except when there’s a guest chef, which is usually Sunday but can change, so check their Instagram before you go." - sophie friedman