Good Fortune Review - Logan Square - Chicago - The Infatuation
"Some people are never afraid to change up their style. They’ll go to a party with brand new bangs (and not adjust them self consciously the entire night), or wear a fedora with zero explanation when they meet you for coffee. There might be the occasional failure (those dolphin-skin boots were… problematic), but at least they keep it interesting - just like Good Fortune does in Logan Square. This low-key neighborhood spot is cute and dark with a busy bar area playing Hall and Oates or the Eagles, and a small upstairs dining room overlooking an open kitchen. But even though this place feels as casual as a pair of Converse, the menu is full of Louboutin heels - like a brightly acidic arctic char with sesame jam and carrot ponzu, or handmade pansotti with tender rabbit and foie gras butter. In other words, it’s more upscale than what you’d expect to find at the Brown Elephant. And while the food at some similar places is as predictable as Lisa Simpson’s dress, Good Fortune switches it up. One day, you might find a really good ribeye with bone marrow and a crispy cromesquis, while on another it’s replaced with striploin and sausage. And like that time Malibu Stacy got a new hat, even menu staples like the caramelized halloumi frequently change their accessories. If you’re not a fan of the pickled peaches and za’atar that come with it the first time you eat here, the next time it could be served with roasted figs and harissa yogurt - which is the best, so please contact your congressman to keep it on the menu. Like those DIY Betty Page bangs, some ideas just don’t work out. The black garlic rigatoni looks cool (it’s very shiny, and reminds us of the gimp’s costume from American Horror Story ), but the bland mushroom conserva it’s served with is as unmemorable as that Door County t-shirt that ended up in your closet somehow. And the bowl of roasted prawns with octopus, sausage, lentils, and piperade is an overcooked mess with shellfish oil muddling all the flavors together. But bad ideas don’t last forever, and bangs will eventually grow out - so on the next visit, they’ll be replaced with something better. And considering that it took us six months to work up the courage to leave the house in a jumpsuit, we appreciate that Good Fortune even makes an effort. If you’ve read this far, then you already know that the food here changes often. But below are a few examples of what you can expect." - Adrian Kane
