"Even in a neighborhood with plenty of great Mexican food, you’d be hard-pressed to find better tacos on the south end. At El Catrin, rockfish is fried but still flaky, carnitas taste juicy, and there’s a lengua taco that could host its own podcast about texture. The restaurant’s tortilla-based mastery extends to burritos and sopes, too. While we wouldn’t mind seeing a few more salsa options to go along with everything, the range and quality of the menu make this a great choice for a night out with people who are always up for another round of Modelos. The restaurant is best enjoyed with others, so you can mix and match smaller dishes. On weekend nights, El Catrin's booths along the walls are often packed with people sharing plates piled with steamy tortillas that sop up drippy guisados and soupy black beans. But weeknights here make for a quiet, pleasantly lazy dinner. There’s a beautiful ofrenda in the corner, a steady stream of Latin pop music playing, and a banquet table right in the middle that could seat a whole Little League team. Takeout’s pretty speedy, but you’re better off sitting and enjoying this food right out of the kitchen. Food Rundown photo credit: Brooke Fitts Sopes This dish looks like three little mountain peaks, but instead of snow you get a generous mound of cheese, pickled onions, and crunchy lettuce on top of meat. The bottom masa base melds well with any variety, but we like the chorizo and chicken best. Taquitos Botanos One of the few skippable appetizers at El Catrin. The shell has a satisfying crunch, but the filling could use a bit more seasoning. photo credit: Brooke Fitts Tacos Get the carne asada version and anything involving pork or seafood. There’s a tasty guisado taco too, but all that sauce makes the tortilla a bit soggy. Carnitas Plate Moist chunks of pork have enough salt, but not so much that you feel like you’re eating a bag of chips. The meat flakes off with just the lightest touch, and the edges are satisfyingly crispy. This entree with rice and beans is large. Still, you may not want to share. Burritos These weighty tortilla torpedoes have great stuff inside, including rice and beans getting along like old friends in even layers with the main fillings. Somehow the sturdy tortilla keeps it all together without making a mess, which our shirts appreciate." - Gabe Guarente
