Gaoku - Review - Humboldt Park - Chicago - The Infatuation
"You never know you need khao soi with ramen noodles and karaage, until you do. This was the epiphany we had at Gaoku, a unique Humboldt Park izakaya with an impressive fusion of Japanese-Thai dishes, ingredients, and flavors. It’s equally exciting for a date, or when you’re hungover at 1pm on a Saturday and the only company you want is that life-giving bowl of soup. photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik Gaoku looks like someone converted a warehouse loft into a bar, and depending on when you’re here, the space takes on a different character. Their weekend-only lunch is calmer with only a few people eating rich khao soi ramen or saucy rice bowls with crispy pork belly (both are lunch menu exclusives). Nights are more active as tables of friends throwback fruity wakamomo smashes and couples at the bar trade bites of excellent tom kha-inspired scallops before a show at the California Clipper across the street. The tall red curtains draped across the windows at Gaoku make the space more intimate in the evening, as a playlist reminds everyone that "Electric Feel" still hits even though 2010s flannels might not. photo credit: Kim Kovacik The menu does have some missteps, like a mushy oyster omelet or an overly rich miso hot buttered rum. And since most of the small plates are indeed small and hover around $20-30, the bill can easily add up. But Gaoku’s take on fusion drinks and bar snacks is fresh and very welcomed. In a city that's especially crowded with stuffy cocktail lounges and musty dives where Old Style is religion, there’s nothing quite like Gaoku. Food Rundown photo credit: Kim Kovacik Hotate Scallops This plate of little bivalves swimming in a tom kha-inspired dashi is our favorite dish from the menu’s cold section. A dollop of caviar complements the sweet, tender scallops, while the coconut sauce gets an exciting dash of spice from chili oil. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Akami These slices of lean tuna are fantastic, with a mix of salty, umami, and slight sweetness from the white truffle oil and soy sauce. But since there are only three slices, the fun is over pretty quickly. Make sure to savor each bite. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Sakura Pork Each slice of pork shoulder has a fatty richness and a pleasant charred flavor after spending some time on a charcoal grill. The meat rests in a pool of roasted rice ponzu that’s sweet, nutty, and gets a burst of tartness from pickled shallots. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Tora Ebi Like the pork, these chunky tiger prawns get a nice smokiness from hanging out on the charcoal grill. The meat has an excellent combination of sweetness and char with additional layers of flavor from a tangy, creamy motoyaki sauce and a sprinkling of peppery Thai spices. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Crispy Charshu Mini Don This side dish with rice and crispy pork belly resting in a sweet and tart white peach sauce is a fantastic lunch-exclusive. But we have two dish-related wishes because we want more of it: upgrade it to full-on main entree status and size, and make it available for dinner. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Khao Soi Ramen Another lunch-only dish that we wish stuck around for dinner. The ramen noodles subbing for the usual flat ones in khao soi are pleasantly chewy, and carry up the coconutty and slightly spicy curry broth with each slurp. The karaage on top is juicy and crispy, just make sure to eat them quickly before they get soggy. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Drinks The drinks here have something for everyone, whether you want something simple or something complex that triggers an eyebrow-raise full of intrigue. For some easy sipping, check out the wakamomo smash (garnished with a juicy baby peach) or Gaoku’s take on a margarita with shiso. If you like your cocktails savory, the coconutty and spiced tom khalada or MSG-punched highball with ginger both have a little bit of a salty kick." - John Ringor
