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"Beckford Canteen is a bright, airy, well-behaved restaurant with a wall display of emerald green plates that will speak to anyone who can’t keep their spider plant alive. You’ll feel new-money-sophisticated eating at this City Centre spot as perfectly executed modern European dishes like day boat fish arrive on the kind of ivy-patterned plates we recognise from our nan’s ‘for best’ cabinet. But it’s not so fancy that they won’t whip you up an off-menu Irish coffee if you ask nicely." - Sinéad Cranna