L’Atelier is exciting where it matters most—the food - Review - Miami - The Infatuation
"It helps to know the lore behind L’Altelier. If you look carefully, you’ll find it staring at you from a portrait in the kitchen—their famous late chef. And while there are parts of this restaurant that feel stuck in the past, the food is exciting enough to suck you into a black hole where the only thing that matters is the delicious truffle tartlet in front of you. It’s hard to believe a place like this has anything exciting to offer. Despite opening in 2019, the dining room is a true 2003 time capsule with dark wood, red accents, and glass cloches. If you didn’t know it’s a tribute to Paris’ original L’Atelier that opened in the ‘00s, you’d half expect someone to whip out a PalmPilot for your order. Again, this is why knowing the lore can be useful. photo credit: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon photo credit: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon video credit: Virginia Otazo photo credit: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon video credit: Virginia Otazo The word “essence” is repeated on the menu more times than a sexually charged shampoo commercial. Mushroom ravioli, lamb saddle, dover sole—it all sounds like a heavy yawn in church. But the dishes that pop from behind the terrarium counter and onto your awkward black placemat are thrilling. The food is layered with flavor and texture. It’s covered in foams, gelees, and colorful emulsions, each component there to serve a purpose beyond looks. If you’re working with a Scrooge McDuck budget, go for the evolution tasting menu. The $225 seven-course meal justifies its price point with no shortage of lobster, pork cheeks, and foie gras. There’s also a less expensive four-course tasting menu for $185. And going a la carte is an option too. We’ve had a great meal here doing that and relying on recommendations from our server. This is fussy French food with lots of distractions on the plate that look too good to be true. But it’s not gratuitous fluff. All those dollops and savory fondants capture your attention, rather than distracting you the way less experienced restaurants do. In the world of cliched amateur tasting menus, L’Atelier acts like a seasoned pro. Food Rundown video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Cocktails L’Atlier has an excellent selection of wines by the glass and bottles (including a ridiculous 2003 Château Latour), but we love their cocktails. Some, like a foamy cosmo, scream season two of Sex and The City. But it nonetheless makes us feel like flirting with the wall. And even though we can’t order the Vanilla Sky without thinking of Tom Cruise’s 2001 haircut, the combination of vodka, pineapple, and vanilla simple syrup is lovely. video credit: Virginia Otazo Evolution Tasting Menu At $255, it is one of the most expensive tasting menus in Miami. But it’s full of costly ingredients and dishes that are hard to pull off, like foie gras royale with parmesan foam and a rabbit ballotine rolled tighter than a beatnik’s cigarette. There’s not a single misstep throughout the seven courses—except dessert, which looks pretty but tastes like Edible Arrangements bonbons. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Pommes Purée These potatoes are more iconic than the Eiffel Tower and have been replicated just as many times. But nothing beats the real thing. It's basically a boatload of butter with a whiff of potato. Don’t be sad when you don’t see it on the menu. It comes complimentary with your main course. Sorry to spoil the surprise. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Le Burger These miniature beef and foie gras burgers are just a little too goofy to justify the $45 it takes to eat one. It’s cute, but not a great example of what this restaurant does best. Skip it." - Virginia Otazo
