"This always-buzzing Cantonese institution is a reliable go-to for many Melbourne chefs, who swing by after service for generous plates of lobster egg noodles, crab fried rice, and Peking duck served until 1:30am. Let the tanks of live seafood lining the spacious, group-friendly room guide your order, and don’t sleep on the pippies in XO—they make for excellent drinking food when paired with a pile of crunchy youtiao. Service can be brusque—you’ll want to be decisive when ordering—and you definitely won’t be allowed to hang around after eating, whether there’s a line forming outside or not (staff might even write the time you need to leave by on your table). But that’s all balanced by affordable prices and the ability to BYO wine." - Ellen Fraser