The Marisol

Marisol Review - Gold Coast - Chicago - The Infatuation

"Let’s get this out of the way: Yes, Marisol is in the Museum of Contemporary Art. Yes, the last time we got excited about museum food it was astronaut ice cream from the Museum of Science and Industry gift shop, and we were 10 years old. But Marisol serves such delicious and interesting dishes that its location is irrelevant. You should come here even if you’re not interested in looking at art or stocking up at the gift shop. Marisol doesn’t have its own separate entrance. So you’ll pass art installations and a help desk on your way to the restaurant - just like a group of eighth graders on a field trip probably did a couple of hours earlier. Like the rest of the MCA, the restaurant feels sleek and modern, and there’s a big, colorful mural, plus some line drawings on the walls. But despite these reminders of where you are, Marisol still feels like its own entity. The American food here is seasonal, with dishes and their preparations changing often. But some things are so good we hope they never leave the menu. For example, the sunflower hummus. This version succeeds where other non-chickpea hummuses we’ve tried lately - made with things like beets, peas, and avocados - have failed. It’s creamy, and blended with oregano and artichokes for a unique and complex flavor. The shrimp and octopus small plates are hits, too. Both look simple, but have components that keep them interesting: the shrimp is served with bits of apple and walnut that add texture and sweetness, and the charred octopus comes with housemade saffron potato chips we’d be happy to eat on our couches at home. While the small plates and appetizers keep things on the lighter side, the pastas and entrees here are heavier - but not excessively so. The bucatini with bresaola, truffles, and butter is rich, and the roasted half chicken that comes with masa dumplings and pâté-topped toast isn’t exactly light. But both dishes taste balanced and delicious, and ultimately, neither of them really weighs you down. The average Midwesterner will certainly be unfazed. The fact that Marisol is in the MCA, and in a neighborhood typically filled with tourists, might discourage you from coming here. Don’t let it. Marisol is a great restaurant in its own right - not just great by museum-restaurant standards - and absolutely worth a visit. Permission slip not required." - Adrian Kane