Twin Tails - Review - Columbus Circle - New York - The Infatuation
"Twin Tails is someone’s idea of a great time, and that someone is ahead on their mortgage. From the people behind Zou Zou’s and Bad Roman, the place is massive and glitzy, with a $175 beef shank khao soi on the menu. It appears to be a clear-cut case of Midtown executive bait, but if you’re willing to pay, you can eat well here. photo credit: Christian Harder photo credit: Christian Harder photo credit: Christian Harder The restaurant is on the third floor of The Shops at Columbus Circle, and it serves a Southeast Asian-inspired menu perfectly tailored to its upscale mall setting. We’re talking tiger prawn pad thai, lobster summer rolls, and filet mignon in the form of shaking beef. Some dishes, like the crab-and-uni buns, lean gimmicky, but a few transcend their corporate setting. Thick-cut salmon crudo takes a new, peppy personality when paired with coconut and tart green apple, and a mammoth pork shank provides bite after bite of crackly skin and melty fat. If you’re planning a meal with clients or out-of-towners, and you need a Midtown-adjacent venue with wow factor, keep this place in mind. It’s so dark your eyes will struggle to adjust, but once they do, they’ll take in mirrored walls, checkered marble floors, and servers in off-white coats lined up like they’re attending roll call. It’s all very glam in an ’80s way, and it’s worth the price of admission, as long as you don’t really care about prices. Food Rundown Peanut-Ginger Chicken Satay So incredibly fine. If you’re in the market for a few flaps of grilled chicken with a sweet satay sauce, have at it. Bánh Khọt A necessary order. Top one of the hot, greasy pancakes with a heap of peekytoe crab, and watch a cloud of steam escape when you bite in. photo credit: Bryan Kim Salmon Crudo Another great starter option, the salmon crudo comes layered over slices of crisp green apple, which add some satisfying crunch and acidity. Crispy Rice & Pomelo Salad As advertised, there’s plenty of rice and pomelo. Unfortunately, that rice is chewy instead of crispy. photo credit: Bryan Kim Pork Shank It’s $50, although you should know that this crispy, football-sized pork shank can feed at least two. The heavily dressed rice underneath gets a little exhausting, but this dish is worth it for the crunchy skin alone." - Bryan Kim
