"A USC undergrad launches a fine dining pop-up in 2022. Two years later, his first restaurant opens next to Giorgio Baldi. We’d tell you what we’d done by 24, but it wasn’t that. Muse’s backstory is impressive, but it’s the polished confidence of this upscale French spot that surprised us. The chic Art Deco space is sexy and intimate. The smooth, boozy cocktails with vermouth and amaro are elite. Then there’s the food: ambitious dishes that, while not perfect, are fresh and interesting, like braided brioche that crackles like a croissant, juicy veal bonbons in a pesto-y sauce, and an herb-crusted rack of lamb we’d put against any in town. Who’s behind it? You’ll probably meet him. The young chef touches every table with the confidence of a floor manager at Le Bernardin." - brant cox, arden shore, sylvio martins, cathy park