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"Occupying a large, swanky premises in St James’s, this buzzy, sustainability-driven restaurant channels a whole-animal ethos into eye-catching cooking, with its signature cod’s head grilled and slathered in bright orange house-made sriracha butter. The team bakes sourdough in-house using leftover potato peelings, makes the sriracha themselves, and even grows mushrooms on-site so chefs maintain an attachment to produce, turning would-be waste into flavour. Beyond the viral dishes, an extensive, wide-ranging menu spans steaks, burgers and a good vegetarian offering, and the dining room hums as one of the busiest in the capital. A savvy social media presence invites you into the kitchen with behind-the-pass videos of signatures from breakfast royales to Sunday roasts, helping explain why swathes of diners keep coming back in both the real and virtual realms." - Andrew Young
Breakfast shines brightest: buttery croissant pucks, black pudding benedicts