Hungary's First 2 Michelin Star Restaurants
"Beneath the walls of a castle, nestled inside some historic cellars, is hidden a restaurant whose cooking has plenty of skill, refinement and creativity. Chef István Pesti’s cuisine has gone from strength to strength since he opened up here in 2021, and the Michelin Inspectors have certainly taken notice. To rate a restaurant with Two Stars, they look not just for great flavours, but a high level of precision and real depth – and throughout the lengthy tasting menu that István creates, these qualities are there in abundance. His dishes are based around delicious natural flavours, which come courtesy of some superb quality produce, but it’s the inventive and intelligent combinations that elevate things to such a high standard. The cooking is always well-balanced – cutting richness when needed – ensuring that all elements fit together perfectly. Whilst Hungarian flavours are evident throughout the menu, István tends not to stick too closely to traditional recipes. There is a creativity to his cooking, along with a high level of complexity and meticulous care that has to be applauded – and the resulting dishes were some of the most memorable that our inspectors experienced throughout the year. Attention to detail is key in cooking of this quality, and delicate precision is found from the start right through to the end of an evening at Platán Gourmet Restaurant. Setting the tone for one Michelin Inspector’s dinner was an amuse bouche of wonderfully constructed gazpacho granita – it was the perfect texture and distilled the essence of the gazpacho flavour brilliantly – leaving her in eager anticipation of what was to follow. The kitchen team’s excellent grasp of flavours was also evident in a dish of trout, cucumber and ponzu, where deliciously pure ingredients were enhanced by their well-considered combination and careful construction. The trout was lightly charred on the outer and paired with pearls of cucumber essence; it was the sweet and salty hit of the ponzu that really set the dish alight however, helped along by bergamot, a hint of mango and a finger lime for acidity. Several inspectors were further impressed by the reworking of the traditional Hungarian dish ‘Brassoi’. This version used pigeon as its base, with the breasts cooked sous vide to achieve a beautifully succulent, tender quality to the meat. Veal sweetbreads added further richness, which was then offset by a superb ratatouille. These well-balanced flavours are a perfect example of the sophisticated, considered cooking that has impressed the Michelin Inspectors so much. This plate was finished off with a nod to the most famous of all Hungarian dishes, through the use of a goulash sauce. The inspectors with a particularly sweet tooth found plenty to love in the desserts too. For one inspector, their top dish was a combination of peach, white chocolate and almond, which once again showcased the level of detail here. Different arrangements of peach – natural, purée, gel and sorbet – provided acidity and were a great contrast to the white chocolate and marzipan mousse that formed the base of the dish – while the biscuit ensured a great textural contrast. There are only eight tables at Platán Gourmet Restaurant, so each lucky diner is treated to a memorable and very personalised experience around the open kitchen. Whilst the dishes are a showcase of István Pesti’s originality as a chef, there is also an admirably confident restraint to his cooking. Smooth service, excellent wines and a unique, attractive location bring everything together to make a great all-round experience." - The MICHELIN Guide UK Editorial Team
