The Essential Guide to Alsace and Lorraine

Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery and Memorial
Military cemetery · Romagne-sous-Montfaucon
"The largest number of American soldiers who died in Europe, mostly in World War I, rest here at the Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery in Romagne-sous-Montfaucon, 80 miles northwest of Metz. Across more than 130 acres, visitors will find row upon humbling row of headstones—14,246 in all—that lead to a chapel where the American flag hangs alongside those of its allies. Renovated in 2016, the visitor center offers an in-depth look at the Meuse-Argonne Offensive through personal stories, photos, and films. When you’re done touring the cemetery, walk to the nearby Romagne ’14–’18 museum for even more stories of heroism and heartbreak."

Centre Pompidou-Metz
Art museum · Metz
"The hip sister of the Centre Pompidou in Paris, this modern and contemporary art museum has become one of France’s most visited cultural venues since opening in 2010. Designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, the 54,000-square-foot building features three rectangular galleries, which regularly host exhibitions of 20th- and 21st-century art from France’s illustrious Musée National d’Art Moderne. The piece de résistance can be seen outside, however—the building’s curvy, mesh roof, composed of glue-laminated timber, was inspired by a Chinese hat that Shigeru Ban found in Paris. Take it all in while dining at the museum’s Voile Blanche restaurant or outdoor brasserie, both of which are headed by Michelin-starred chef Eric Maire."

Pl. d'Armes
Metz
"It may have taken 300 years—plus the unification of two churches—to build St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Metz, but the Gothic masterpiece is one of Europe’s tallest churches (at 140 feet) and boasts more stained glass than any other cathedral in the world (70,000 square feet, to be exact). In fact, St. Stephen’s has so much stained glass that it was nicknamed La Lanterne du Bon Dieu , or God’s Lantern. When visiting (entry is free), look for the windows by famed artists Jacques Villon and Marc Chagall. Afterward, walk a few steps to Place d’Armes in the Old Town, where outdoor cafés and restaurants abound and, during Christmas, a market takes over the arcade."

Hôtel de la Cathédrale
Hotel · Metz
"In addition to a prime location in Metz’s cultural district, the Hôtel de la Cathédrale features a charming mix of antique furnishings and modern conveniences. Some of the rooms in this 17th-century town-house-turned-hotel have cathedral-facing views, but even those that don’t still offer guests a historic feel in the form of vintage furniture, exposed beams, and heirloom carpets. Soak up the charm, then head out to explore nearby sites like St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the Centre Pompidou-Metz, the Musée de la Cour d’Or, and more."

Musée de l'École de Nancy
Art museum · Nancy
"Musée de l’École de Nancy In Nancy, visitors can download an art nouveau itinerary for free from the tourist office website, then tour 250 buildings and storefronts featuring wrought iron, stained glass, and ceramics. They can also visit the Musée de l’École de Nancy, one of France ’s few museums dedicated to the art nouveau movement in Lorraine. About a 45-minute walk from Place Stanislas, the museum highlights the region’s contributions to architecture, decorative arts, and furnishings, with pieces by key artists like Louis Marjorelle, Jacques Gruber, and Émile Gallé. Surrounding the museum (which is closed Mondays and Tuesdays), there are several more outstanding examples of École de Nancy architecture, including the Villa Majorelle and several buildings along Rue de la Commanderie and Avenue Foch."

Place Stanislas
Landmark · Nancy
"From 1704 to 1709 and again from 1733 to 1736—in between his time as King of Poland —Stanisław Leszczyński lived in Nancy, France . In 1737, he became the Duke of Lorraine and subsequently established an academy of science, a military college, and Place Stanislas, the massive pedestrian square that comprises both Place Carrière and Place d’Alliance. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s considered one of the most beautiful royal squares in Europe. Come here to see City Hall, the Opéra National de Lorraine, the Museum of Fine Arts, and, of course, a bronze statue of Stanislas. There are also plenty of places nearby to grab a coffee or a bite to eat when you need a break from the sightseeing."

Grand Café Foy
Restaurant · Nancy
"Founded in 1850 and housed in the oldest building on Place Stanislas, Grand Café Foy takes its name from General Maximilien Sébastien Foy, who served under Napoléon. Dining at the restaurant, which is open daily from 7 a.m. to 2 a.m., is a bit like stepping back in time, when massive mirrors and red-velvet accents were de rigueur. The wine-by-the-glass selection is extensive, as is the bistro-style menu, which features everything from chicken Caesar salad and steak frites to escargots and the traditional intestine sausage andouillette. For a composed meal, opt for one of the reasonably priced three-course menus, which include dishes like foie gras, fillet of beef, and a selection of French cheeses for dessert."

Historical Museum of the City of Strasbourg
Local history museum · Strasbourg
"Today, Strasbourg is considered the “capital of a reconciled Europe,” but it had to struggle through the Germanic Holy Roman Empire, the Royal Free City, the French Revolution, and a few assassinations before it earned that distinction. Open since 1920, the Historical Museum retraces these political, economic, and cultural years through paintings and military artifacts. A more recent addition to the building, which actually served as the city’s slaughterhouse in 1587, highlights the period from 1800 to when the Council of Europe was created in 1949, includingNapoléon’s three visits."

Jardin des Deux Rives
Garden · Strasbourg
"Jardin des Deux Rives With 350 miles of bikes paths, Strasbourg is one of the most cyclable cities in France. To experience it for yourself, head to the Jardin des Deux Rives (Two Shores Garden), a 370-acre, transboundary green space that opened in 2004 as a symbol of peace between France and Germany. Here, the Pont de l’Europe (Europe Bridge) crosses the Rhine to connect Strasbourg and Kehl, meaning you can bike through two countries in one day. Rent a bike from Vélhop, Strasbourg’s bike-sharing initiative, which offers short- or long-term use of regular, electric, and even tandem bikes. Once you’re signed up for the service, you can grab a bike at one of the automatic stations around the city, or stop by a Vélhop shop, where you can also get a helmet—and advice from real people."

Petite-France
Strasbourg
"Nothing in life is perfect, but Strasbourg’s historic district, La Petite France , comes pretty close. Located at the west end of the Grand Île (the first entire city center to be named a UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to its French and German architecture), this picturesque neighborhood is the stuff storybooks are made of, complete with canal bridges and half-timbered homes. Gaze at the sloping rooftops of the 16th-century buildings and imagine the tanners who used to dry their skins in those attics, or picture the fishermen and millers who used to live and work here when it was the poorest area of the city. Buy some salted caramel or raspberry–milk shake macarons at Elisabeth Biscarratat on Rue de la Vignette, then savor them along the ponts couverts that cross the four river channels (these “covered bridges” were built in 1250 to defend the city, but their protective wooden roofs were torn down in 1784). All roads here lead to Place Kleber, a giant square that can be a tad commercial save for the book market on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, and the world-renowned Christmas market, during which a 100-foot tree from the Vosges Mountains takes over the square from the end of November through December."

"A brief walk from the Strasbourg Cathedral lies the glorious Palais Rohan, a former Episcopal residence built between 1732 and 1742. Designed by the king’s architect for the Prince-Bishop of Strasbourg, the architectural masterpiece has welcomed everyone from Louis XV and Napoléon to Marie Antoinette, whose fate was later sealed by palace resident Cardinal Rohan. Today, visitors can tour the Decorative Arts Museum on the ground floor for a peak at the gorgeous cardinal apartments and the jaw-dropping, solid-mahogany library, as well as various furniture, jewelry, and sculptures. Afterward, head up to the first floor, where the Museum of Fine Arts features masterworks by Botticelli, Raphael, Rubens, and Delacroix, or down to the basement to see the Archaeological Museum, one of the largest museums of its kind in France."

Parc de l'Orangerie
Strasbourg
"Situated just past the European Parliament and the European Council, Parc de l’Orangerie is the oldest park in Strasbourg. Dedicated to Napoléon’s wife Joséphine in 1804, the 64-acre, manicured paradise is a favorite meeting place for yogis and joggers, first dates (there’s a romantic waterfall), and families (who hang around the playground, lake, and free mini-zoo). It’s also home to a one-of-a-kind sanctuary for some 800 storks, which were reintroduced to the area in 1971 after facing extinction, and the Pavillon Joséphine, which hosts exhibitions and temporary events. When hunger strikes, there are places on the grounds to grab a bite to eat, including the gourmet restaurant Buerehiesel."

Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg
Cathedral · Strasbourg
"It took 424 years to build this Gothic showpiece, but considering the hundreds of sculptures jutting out from the facade, the timing is almost understandable. At 466 feet tall, the Strasbourg Cathedral was, from its completion in 1439 until the mid-19th century, the highest Christian structure in the world. Today, it’s fallen to sixth place, but its frontispiece is still considered one of the greatest medieval picture books of all time. Inside, a gander at the 12th- to 14th-century stained glass and organ (with parts dating back to 1385) is optional, but climbing the spire’s 322 steps to enjoy panoramic views over the city as far as Vosges and the Black Forest is pretty much obligatory. Make sure your visit coincides with the 12:30 p.m. hour, when the cathedral’s astronomical clock comes alive with apostles parading before Christ."

Au Brasseur
Brewpub · Strasbourg
"Strasbourg is both the capital of and the largest city in the Grand Est, formerly known as Alsace-Champagne-Ardenne-Lorraine—and the only region in France where both beer and wine are produced. In 1268, brewing beer became an official trade in Strasbourg and, today, five breweries in Alsace (Fischer, Heineken, Karlsbrau, Kronenbourg, and Meteor) produce 50 percent of France’s beer. Since 1991, Au Brasseur has been making its own beer in the same space that Espérance brewery operated from 1746 to 1863. Here, the Brasseur boys serve cold, unfiltered, and unpasteurized pints straight from the vat. Try the Blanche d’Ill, a spicy and slightly citrusy malted wheat beer served with an orange peel, or the Brune de Quai, which features strong notes of coffee and chocolate. For pairing with your suds, the brewery also serves traditional Alsatian dishes, including flammkuchen (tarte flambée)."

Maison Kammerzell
French restaurant · Strasbourg
"On the corner of Place de la Cathédrale, the four-story Maison Kammerzell could rely purely on its history (some of which dates back to 1427), but its traditional fare, reasonably priced menus, and reliable service are equally as impressive as its backstory. It’s tempting to dine on the terrace, but the lunch and dinner menus offered inside are much more extensive, plus you’ll get to marvel at the Léo Schnug Room, with vaulted ceilings, arched windows, and allegorical frescoes from 1904, or the Cathedral Side Room, with a series of stained glass windows and wood paintings that detail Germanic mythology. While the menu features such delicacies as foie gras and escargots, it’s the choucroute (sauerkraut) that really stands out at this local institution. In fact, the iconic Choucroute aux Trois Poissons dish, dreamed up by Guy Pierre Baumann in 1970, is known worldwide."

Chez Yvonne
Restaurant · Strasbourg
"Restaurant Chez Yvonne is one of Strasbourg’s oldest and most famous winstubs (wine lounges)—and a less-expensive alternative to the city’s Michelin-starred Au Crocodile. The cozy eatery was a favorite of former French president Jacques Chirac, who often came here to discuss politics over wine and sauerkraut. Offering traditional Alsatian dishes, this is not a place for fussy eaters. Look forward to everything from liver dumplings, veal tongue, and braised pork knuckles to more standard fare like roasted chicken and fillet of beef, all doused in sauce and served with something sautéed."

Le Bouclier d'Or Hotel & Spa
Wellness hotel · Strasbourg
"Le Bouclier d’Or Le Bouclier d’Or is superbly located in the center of Strasbourg’s historic district, La Petit France. Just steps from all the major sights, the renovated mansion offers an eclectic setting, rich with antiques but also with modern conveniences like air-conditioning (if spacious bathrooms are a must, this is the place to stay). Tucked away from the main roads, guests stay in one of 22 quiet rooms, each uniquely decorated—and some with views of the cathedral spires. Much appreciated after a long day of sightseeing, the on-site L’Écrin du Bien-Être Spa offers a range of massages and facials to help travelers relax and rejuvenate."

Hôtel & Spa RÉGENT PETITE FRANCE
Hotel · Strasbourg
"If there’s one thing that can transform a good vacation into an unforgettable holiday, it’s splurging on a room with a view. At Régent Petite France Hotel & Spa, all 75 spacious, tastefully decorated rooms look out onto the River Ill. They also feature marble bathrooms with rain showers, for when you need to actually venture outside. In the morning, guests can enjoy a copious buffet breakfast on the terrace overlooking the canals, then spend time at the spa before exploring Strasbourg. Come evening, grab a drink at the Champagne Bar, or make a dinner reservation at Le Pont Tournant and enjoy dishes like fillet of cod with hazelnut butter, and roasted deer with mashed pumpkin."

Unterlinden Museum
Art museum · Colmar
"In few places but Alsace can oenophiles drive 100 miles and meet more than 1,000 wine producers, all with a backdrop of medieval châteaus and postcard-perfect villages. The Alsace Wine Route consists of five regions: Pays de Wissembourg, Vignoble de Strasbourg, Coeur d’Alsace, La Route des Vins Sud-Alsace, and Terre et Vins au Pays de Colmar. If you only have a day or so to explore, base yourself some 45 minutes south of Strasbourg in Colmar, a medieval town with cobblestone streets and a Gothic church from the 13th century. Here, you can visit Domaine Robert Karcher et Fils and Domaine Viticole de la Ville de Colmar for free tastings of the region’s dry riesling, full-bodied gewürztraminer, and range of pinot noirs. West of Colmar, there are three other notable vineyard stops: Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Domaine Josmeyer in Wintzenheim, and Domaine Emile Beyer in Eguisheim (one of France’s most beautiful villages, renowned for its Issenheim wine and museum dedicated entirely to Muenster cheese)."
