"Set the sceneBlink and you’d whizz straight past the whitewashed buildings set a little way back from the puttering tuk-tuks and horn toots of Siem Reap’s Street 30, a 10-minute drive from Angkor’s splendid temples. Two metal doors with cut-out palm frond patterns set inside a squared-off stone archway swing open to reveal a Buddha statue holding court over a paved pathway, which leads to this unexpected boutique hotel in a petite, manicured garden. Pleasingly, it’s a little less in the thick of things than the likes of grande dame Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor and Amansara on rue Charles de Gaulle. What’s the backstory?This is the second boutique hotel from the team behind Cambodia’s first plastic-free property, Jaya House River Park. Managing director Christian de Boer, former general manager at Shinta Mani and co-founder of the Refill not Landfill initiative, has once again placed sustainability and community at the heart of this little-sister outpost. The all-Cambodian team (dressed nattily in flint linen get-ups by local couturier Eric Raisina) are chosen for their passion over formal qualifications, then given regular training opportunities. This place is as stylish as it is soulful; Cambodian architect Si Sokvann has transformed an abandoned hotel project into a small-but-wonderful tropical modernist outpost, all clean lines and rustling fan palms, with a high-drama greenhouse restaurant, a spa with a fern-fronted façade, and an eye-catching chrome-tiled swimming pool. What can we expect in our room?There’s a silvery sofa heaped with mint, pearl, and ash-gray cushions, as well as a marshmallow-soft bed set underneath a geometric frosted mirror. Monochrome paintings of inspiring Khmer creatives—from greats such as Sinn Sisamouth (aka "Cambodia’s Elvis") to modern-day chanteuse Laura Mam—are hung on the walls. Striped laundry bags by Rehash Trash (which transforms roadside rubbish into stylish homeware), dappled-pink Buddha statues, and refillable bottles of house-made Jaya Organics toiletries all root you firmly in Cambodia. How about the food and drink?At Deco restaurant there isn’t a dish which we can’t rave about; from smashed avocado and perfectly poached eggs sprinkled with a crunchy pistachio dukkah at breakfast to suppers of traditional Khmer fish curry amok reimagined as a sophisticated mushroom- and chickpea-packed vegan pasta dish. Cocktails—such as raspberry-mint lemonade with a gin, vodka, and elderflower kick—are refreshing and delivered with panache. Chef Bunna Arthireach’s sensational cooking combined with a dramatic glasshouse make Deco is a pull in its own right. What’s the crowd like?Book-smart groups of NGO-worker pals chatting cult novels and art on weekend mini breaks, couples in Dodo Bar Or fringed halter maxi-dresses and Vilebrequin swim shorts, and bohemian families who explore Angkor at dawn and spend afternoons larking around in the pool. Anything to say about the service?Genuine and exacting; the staff takes the time to get to know each guest, meaning their recommendations (say a jaunt to one of Angkor’s lesser-visited temples through the countryside at golden hour, past thatch-topped restaurants and lotus-flower-filled lakes) always feel personal. What’s the neighborhood scene like?Street 30 is ever so slightly away from the main tourist drag, but everywhere you’d want to go is an easy five- to 20-minute tuk-tuk ride away—be it the Angkor National Museum, the world’s most famous temple complex, astonishing acrobatic performances at Phare circus, or the neon-lit bars of Pub Street. Our suggestion: Skip the main drag and sip kombucha Mojitos at Shanghai-sultry speakeasy Miss Wong instead. Anything else to add?In a brilliant, more-hotels-should-do-it touch, laundry and an hour-long daily spa treatment are included in the incredibly reasonable room rate (a foot massage is just the thing after a day’s temple-hopping). Anything you would change?Honestly, we don’t think so. Is it worth it?Absolutely. It's a feel-good hotel through and through, from the light and breezy tropicana decor to the delicious Cambodian fusion food. Plus, a stay genuinely contributes to the community, as profits support four local NGOs. Prepare to wax lyrical to friends when you get home (but don’t tell too many people, otherwise getting a room on a future visit could prove tricky)." - Ianthe Butt
