Culver City Hotspot Laurel Grill Is the Cure for Fancy-Ass LA Restaurants | Eater LA
"Set on the top floor of the Culver Steps development overlooking downtown Culver City, this low-key neighborhood spot channels a very particular early-aughts normcore: flickering gas fireplaces set between lounge chairs, low-slung black leather banquettes, a full grand piano on a small stage, a black-and-white photo of an eagle above a fireplace, and bars of dark sound-deadening material hovering over the dining area. Discounted validated parking is available in the underground lot below, the host commonly estimates a 30-minute to hour wait for parties (one visit involved a 45-minute wait), and reservations are available through Resy (prime dinner hours of about 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. tend to be booked; eating at the bar is first-come, first-serve). The menu leans on widely appealing American-ish crowd-pleasers—dishes evoking a Beverly Hills bistro of the early 2000s—ranging from meatballs and tomato sauce over whipped ricotta and Cajun shrimp salad with lime vinaigrette to a New England clam chowder with cubic morsels of bacon and oversized croutons; the Laurel house salad is served on a chilled plate with lettuce, peppadews, and Irish cheddar in a savory mustard vinaigrette. Specific items noted: a $22 all-American wagyu hot dog (described as very bready due to a sausage-to-bun-to-kraut ratio issue), a grilled prime rib-eye cooked to a textbook medium rare with smoky grilled asparagus (black garlic butter was touted on the menu but was missing from the plate served), chips and salsa, a salmon poke bowl, bacon-wrapped dates, a smoked ham-and-pineapple pizza, spicy vodka rigatoni, herb-roasted rotisserie chicken, and a cheeseburger topped with arugula; sides include French fries, a baked potato, maitake mushrooms, and sautéed spinach. The drinks list features playfully named cocktails like the It’s Giving…Paloma and the Poblano Picasso (charred poblano agave that remains essentially tequila with Squirt), about 18 wines by the glass from California, Italy, and France priced roughly $14–$19, and a beer selection of Blue Moon, Sam Adams, and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (plus non-alcoholic Peroni). Service moments stand out: attentive servers kept refilling a warm-water pitcher to steep peppermint tea without scorching the bags—“A-plus for service.” The room’s vibe is described succinctly as: “If there was an American version of the way that Balthazar interprets the French brasserie, [this restaurant] is it.” Jazz from the Charlie Parker/Ella Fitzgerald era plays discreetly from hidden speakers while the unmanned piano sits as ambiance; televisions above the bar are muted. The overall verdict: not aiming to redefine the city’s dining scene, this place offers the comforting, well-executed familiarity of normcore fine dining—escapism where salad plates are chilled, tea stays hot, and guests can choose either a casual meal or a special-occasion dinner without fuss. " - Rebecca Roland
