

5

"Opened by former Indaco chef and Indigo Road culinary director Mark Bolchoz and his wife, Ariana, this traditional osteria near their Hanahan home focuses on Lowcountry produce and products. The kitchen brings in local mollusks for a wood-fired oyster appetizer that’s similar to oyster casino, with arugula, Parmesan cream, breadcrumbs, lemon, and dill—an ideal balance of smoky and creamy. After a run of mediocre meatballs around the Lowcountry, I’d stopped ordering them, but the beef-and-pork version here, with rich umami that stands up to the spicy tomato sauce, made me believe again. For dessert, the lush banana gelato with dulce de leche and a sprinkle of vanilla cookie and dark chocolate is a very Italian-meets-Lowcountry bite (I’m going with calling it Italian banana pudding). With cozy leather banquettes and black-and-white family photos, it feels like an old-school Italian joint, drawing neighbors dressed up for a night out, industry folks at the chef’s counter, and travelers in the know. Insider tip: stop in early-week for Mad Dog Mondays, when a special menu rolls out dishes like cheesy garlic bread, a chopped salad, and a giant portion of chicken Parmesan." - Erin Perkins