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"Named after a Dutch concept meaning an atmosphere that allows good times, this new wine-focused, broadly European restaurant—opening as a permanent site in September after a residency at Carousel—will serve creative comfort food with much prepared in-house, from butchery to bread. Head chef Graham Long (with 15 years at Michelin-starred kitchens including Pied à Terre, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and The Sir Charles Napier, plus experience in Hong Kong and as opening consultant for Elystan Street) has signalled that several residency dishes will feature, including suckling pig sausage rolls and a toastie of aged Comté with green strawberry chutney. Other plates promised are smoked eel and Lancy Bomber soufflé with crème fraîche and lovage; crispy langoustine lettuce wraps with red onion and peach; hand-cut strozzapretti with rabbit and carrot Bolognese; baked Viola aubergine with red pepper, dried olives, pine nuts and ewe’s curd; and warm Porthilly oysters with cauliflower, Manzanilla sherry and seaweed jelly. Larger sharing dishes include chicken and mushroom pie with creamed potato and a Navarin of lamb with lamb-fat potatoes and spring greens. Front of house will be led by sommeliers Wieteke Teppema and James Comyn, who plan a wine list that balances off-the-beaten-track discoveries with iconic bottles under an ethos of “fine wine without the high price tag,” with music, frivolity and indulgent feasting encouraged." - Zeren Wilson