Critic Tim Hayward Says Nuala Sets a ‘New Benchmark for Hospitality’ | Eater London

"Two national critics found much to admire but also notable inconsistencies. Snacks are tightly flavored and a starter of squid with almond cream is singled out as uniquely nourishing and swoon-inducing, while the wine list curated by Honey Spencer is praised for clearly separating funkier natural bottles from more conventional choices. There are brilliant moments — salt-baked beetroot described as worthy of lyric poetry, sublime potato and cabbage side dishes, and a fabulous sweetbreads with cauliflower rarebit — but signature mains can disappoint (a merely OK suckling pig, and a fireplace pumpkin with cheddar called a mess), and puddings are said to read well on the menu yet reduce mostly to creamy bowls. The service and hospitality are warm and cosseting, creating an inviting atmosphere, but some feel the flashes of genius are not frequent enough to justify the prices." - George Reynolds