"When you visit, pretty much every table will sport a massive, majestic deep-fried catfish, as part of the ca bong lau nuong dish (billed as “DIY wrap dishes, served with herbs, lettuce and vermicelli). It takes 30 minutes to prepare, and it is — without question — worth the wait, for the crispy, caramelized sheets of scallion-sprinkled skin alone. Snack on the skin while it’s hot, then make a rice paper-encased roll and dip it into the wonderfully funky anchovy sauce. The banh xeo (sizzling rice flour crepe flavored with turmeric) is also quite crisp, with no hint of the soggy middle that plagues so many others." - Becky Grunewald
