What the Critics Said About London Restaurants Last Week | Eater London

"A high-ambition seafood restaurant that divides opinion: some critics rave about dishes like a perfect stracciatella with melon, tomato and mint, Spanish red prawns grilled to crispy, salty, smoky perfection, and a melon-and-crab gazpacho, even singling out a signature baked cheesecake. Others find the place all style and not always substance—its beautiful aesthetic doesn’t always translate to consistently excellent cooking. Specific missteps cited include a synthetic-tasting sauce with sardine boquerones, cold and stodgy salt-cod takoyaki, and hash browns that fail as a vehicle for caviar. Attractive and top‑notch at times, but uneven overall." - George Reynolds