
5

"The Italia menu offers charming, flavorful, and generous takes on Italian tradition under executive chef Edgar Tinoco, producing one delicious dish after another. Highlights include a cacio e pepe called the best the critic can recall, an excellent ziti Bolognese, and a dream-worthy branzino accented with Calabrian-chile and blood-orange purées and a complex sauce built from stock, roasted bones, and fermented satsuma orange. A sensational veal-cheek agrodolce features braised veal atop a bread-pudding custard with raisins, kale, a four-bean purée, and a delicate onion chip, while sommelier João Alves de Sá offers fascinating all-Italian wine pairings that showcase the Alinea Group’s sourcing strengths." - Jeffy Mai