"The curiously-named Farzi — the word means ‘fake’ in Urdu — is a renowned Modern Indian chain in India owned by Zorawar Kalra, the son of the late, legendary food expert Jiggs Kalra. It launched with fanfare in Piccadilly’s touristy Haymarket early in 2019; but the unusual choice of location gives it a casual walk-in-off-the-street, all-comers-welcome feel. There’s dark wood, bright lights, and shiny surfaces everywhere, including a glittery cocktail bar. Early reviews were lukewarm; but since then the chef has changed, and so has some of the menu. Recently appointed Nikhil Mahale’s cooking is vibrant, often thrilling, with layers of complex spicing in tamarind and coriander water that comes with pani poori; and Andhra-style red chilli and lentil chutney that makes ‘paneer popcorn’ moreish. Western menu staples like roast beef marrow, tuna tartare, and fish and chips have been given a masala makeover." - Sejal Sukhadwala