"A nearly century-old counter-style institution beloved by locals for a single specialty: a signature loose-meat sandwich served on a soft bun with pungent mustard, pickles, onions and unseasoned moist steamed meat that spills onto a paper wrapper; the place prides itself on preserving an unchanged tradition (even voting by customers once decided whether to allow ketchup). Its three-sided wraparound counter, wooden pie cabinet and longtime regulars make it a touchstone of communal, down-to-earth Midwestern dining and a ritualized, if mildly annoyed, campaign stop when politicians pass through." - Meghan McCarron