"Black and white, old and new, day and night… It’s all about contrasts in The Lumiares, starting with the elegant lobby where striking monochrome tiles make a great first impression. Then there’s the fact that this 18th-century restored palace houses a collection of contemporary apartments. And the yin and yang of the trendy Bairro Alto neighbourhood: by day, tourists explore the cobblestoned backstreets while locals go about their daily business; by night, it transforms into one giant street party (don’t worry, triple-glazed windows mean you won’t hear a thing). Even the hotel’s name has a double meaning: ‘Lumiares’ because the building once belonged to Count Lumiares, but also a nod to the light-and-dark theme (referenced in the apartments’ hand-pressed typography posters).There’s so much to love here: the service is nothing short of impeccable, and the rooftop restaurant is as special as its castle views (and cocktails). There’s also a sweet spa on the ground floor. But what made us fall hard was the bespoke décor by local artisans in all 53 suites, from handspun tapestries to urban artworks. Despite its hip hotel status and international accolades, The Lumiares never forgets its Portuguese roots. Highs You’re in the heart of the Bairro Alto – a historic district with a bohemian soul. At night, pint-sized bars spill out onto the cobblestoned streetsLumi, the trendy rooftop restaurant, has spectacular city viewsOr self cater: each apartment has a fully equipped Smeg kitchen (including a fridge with complimentary soft drinks)Exceptionally friendly staff who send helpful pre-arrival info and take your number at check-in, so anything you need is just a WhatsApp awayWe loved the Portuguese designed décor and the cool cubic lighting installation in the central staircase Lows It's pricey but you get a lot of space for your moneyWindows in street-level apartments don’t open (for security reasons)Bathrooms, though stylish, with geometric tiles, are on the small sideMost apartments have high ceilings, however the building’s heritage means a few are partially sloped" - Clemmy Manzo