The hyped smashburger isn't the best thing at Dumbo - Review - London - The Infatuation
"Stroll past Dumbo at 6pm and you’ll question what the swarm of people gatherered outside are there for. Passers-by dodge gaggles of Asahi-drinkers to get to the zebra crossing on Bethnal Green Road; bemused regulars at the chippy next door gnaw on saveloys, shaking their heads in disbelief at the pandemonium; and calls of “sorry about the wait” go up as brown bags are exchanged. It’s not a lo-fi hip-hop set from an artist that’s never been seen in public. It’s smashburgers. photo credit: Felix Dol Maillot photo credit: Felix Dol Maillot Dumbo is a Paris import but its crisp-edged patties don’t warrant the frenzy. The burgers themselves are fine, if a little dry, and the potato-roll-meets-brioche-bun doesn’t hold up well. Still, for a portion of crunchy, peppery nuggets (our favourite thing here) and perfect fries, we like Dumbo. And standing with a crowd of people who make jorts look good and one confused dad with his son, is the most fun we’ve had queuing for a burger in London. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna photo credit: Sinéad Cranna video credit: Sinéad Cranna Pause Unmute Food Rundown Cheeseburger The anti-smash people could hold these patties up as evidence of why smooshing meat down isn’t always better. You get two patties but even then, it’s all crust with not the slightest suggestion of juiciness. They’re generous with the ketchup and mustard, though, which sort of helps. PlayMute video credit: Sinéad Cranna Earth Burger While they’re still a mostly moisture-free zone, we found these vegetarian patties to be pretty decent. The addition of shredded lettuce on these (not found on the cheeseburger) was nice too. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Nuggets Not enough people talk about the nuggets at Dumbo, and they’re really tasty. Everything is just a bit better than a sad takeaway version. The tempura batter is crisp, not too thick, and nicely seasoned. The chicken actually tastes like chicken. And the sweet and sour sauce has a pleasingly thick, jammy consistency. photo credit: Felix Dol Maillot French Fries Get the fries. Cooked twice and seasoned by someone who is unafraid of sodium, they’re excellent. PlayMute video credit: Sinéad Cranna" - Sinéad Cranna
