I am shamelessly obsessed with Naples and I want to eat and drink everything in the city always, forever. Since moving to Rome in 2003, I have spent a great deal of time exploring nearby Naples, writing guide books, filming several episodes of “Cities of the Underworld”, and generally researching food and drinks. I am completely in love with the place and it saddens me that lots of visitors to Italy skip Naples on their way to the Amalfi Coast or Pompeii, squandering precious culinary and cultural opportunities in the process. Naples has one of the best food cultures in the country and its specialties scratch nearly every imaginable gastronomic itch. Here are some places I love.
Enogastronomia Champagneria Caseari Cautero
Wine bar · Mater Dei
For cheeses and cured meats: Caseari Cautero (Piazzetta Pontecorvo) sells and serves cheeses and cured meats mainly from Campania, Abruzzo, Calabria, and beyond. Proprietor Salvatore Cautero is a fourth generation food purveyor–the family was in the stockfish business–and just last month transformed part of his retail space into a small dining room with a large communal table surrounded by wine bottles, as well as some outdoor seating overlooking the Neapolitan theatrical performance that is Via Rosa.
Naples
17 Places
I am shamelessly obsessed with Naples and I want to eat and drink everything in the city always, forever. Since moving to Rome in 2003, I have spent a great deal of time exploring nearby Naples, writing guide books, filming several episodes of “Cities of the Underworld”, and generally researching food and drinks. I am completely in love with the place and it saddens me that lots of visitors to Italy skip Naples on their way to the Amalfi Coast or Pompeii, squandering precious culinary and cultural opportunities in the process. Naples has one of the best food cultures in the country and its specialties scratch nearly every imaginable gastronomic itch. Here are some places I love.
Pizzeria Da Attilio
Pizza restaurant
For pizza: Attilio is the best. Don’t believe the Da Michele and Sorbillo hype. The volume they do has led to a major decline in the consistency of their product. Attilio, on the other hand, is perfect.
50 Kalò
Pizza restaurant
Also check out Ciro Salvo’s 50 Kalo in Mergellina–it’s nice to walk there along the sea from Chiaia.
Gino e Toto Sorbillo
Pizza restaurant
Of course Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali 32) is super famous and if you’re on a massive pizza tour, do pop in, crowds permitting, of course.
Pizzaria La Notizia
Pizza restaurant
Up on Vomero, check out La Notizia, and anything else Enzo Coccia is affiliated with.
Pizzeria I Decumani
Pizza restaurant
For fritti: Start every pizza meal in Napoli with fried things like frittatine (basically béchamel-bound pasta croquettes) and crocche’ di patate. I love these things at Attilio and 50 Kalò and I Decumani (Via dei Tribunali 58-61) does good fritti, as well. But basically every place along Via dei Tribunali does fritti and pizza a portafoglio from roadside stalls for a quick bite on your feet.
Enogastronomia Champagneria Caseari Cautero
Wine bar
For cheeses and cured meats: Caseari Cautero (Piazzetta Pontecorvo) sells and serves cheeses and cured meats mainly from Campania, Abruzzo, Calabria, and beyond. Proprietor Salvatore Cautero is a fourth generation food purveyor–the family was in the stockfish business–and just last month transformed part of his retail space into a small dining room with a large communal table surrounded by wine bottles, as well as some outdoor seating overlooking the Neapolitan theatrical performance that is Via Rosa.
Pescheria Mattiucci
Seafood restaurant
For fish: Peschiera Mattiucci serves simple raw and marinated catch at a fish shop in Chiaia.
Ventimetriquadri - Specialty Coffee
Espresso bar
For more thoughtfully brewed coffee, visit Ventimetriquadri in Vomero.
