Naples

For pizza: Attilio is the best. Don’t believe the Da Michele and Sorbillo hype. The volume they do has led to a major decline in the consistency of their product. Attilio, on the other hand, is perfect.

Also check out Ciro Salvo’s 50 Kalo in Mergellina–it’s nice to walk there along the sea from Chiaia.

Of course Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali 32) is super famous and if you’re on a massive pizza tour, do pop in, crowds permitting, of course.

Up on Vomero, check out La Notizia, and anything else Enzo Coccia is affiliated with.

For fritti: Start every pizza meal in Napoli with fried things like frittatine (basically béchamel-bound pasta croquettes) and crocche’ di patate. I love these things at Attilio and 50 Kalò and I Decumani (Via dei Tribunali 58-61) does good fritti, as well. But basically every place along Via dei Tribunali does fritti and pizza a portafoglio from roadside stalls for a quick bite on your feet.

For cheeses and cured meats: Caseari Cautero (Piazzetta Pontecorvo) sells and serves cheeses and cured meats mainly from Campania, Abruzzo, Calabria, and beyond. Proprietor Salvatore Cautero is a fourth generation food purveyor–the family was in the stockfish business–and just last month transformed part of his retail space into a small dining room with a large communal table surrounded by wine bottles, as well as some outdoor seating overlooking the Neapolitan theatrical performance that is Via Rosa.

For simple Neapolitan fare with a big dose of folklore.

For fish: Peschiera Mattiucci serves simple raw and marinated catch at a fish shop in Chiaia.

For pastries - all Neapolitan classics.

For more thoughtfully brewed coffee, visit Ventimetriquadri in Vomero.