Hannah Selinger on Her New Restaurant Memoir ‘Cellar Rat’ | Eater

"Selinger uses an anecdote about traveling internationally to illustrate how her relationship to extreme fine dining has changed: she once picked up and flew to Spain for a reservation at a famed tasting-menu restaurant and “was able to sit through a seven-hour meal,” but now admits she “don’t really have the constitution for that anymore.” That example is offered to show the closing of a chapter in her life—she still values the magic of a dining room and the right meal at the right time, but no longer feels comfortable in ultra-formal dining environments with turned-over silverware and multi-thousand-dollar bottles." - Bettina Makalintal