"It was almost midnight when I pulled up to the drop site in a borrowed car, the rear seats pushed down to make room for the product. My cousin knew a Pakistani guy who had acquired the best stuff money could buy, rare varietals that were spoken of in hushed, reverent tones at parties. But the dealer had a strange system: You had to message him on WhatsApp, order in bulk a week ahead of time, and send someone to pick up the product from an airport cargo bay. ... That’s how I ended up driving two hours each way to and from the Detroit airport to pick up 12 boxes of irradiation-treated mangoes from Karachi, Pakistan. ... The next day, my family gorged. The mangoes were unlike anything I’d eaten in America before — they were fragrant not just in smell, but also in taste. Powerfully sweet. Bursting with juice." - Ahmed Ali Akbar
