24 Hours Apart, the Evening Standard Shows How and How Not to Review a Restaurant | Eater London

"A recent opening whose clinical, minimally magnetic dining room—overhead lights likened to a dental hygienist and a central layout referencing the development’s corporate feel—belies food that is warm and often friendly. Dishes vary: some ideas stumble in execution (a Guinness-based sauce made steak tartare overly sloshy; sweetbreads and cauliflower suffered from an underpowered cheese sauce), while others shine, notably a beautiful chicken with chanterelles and a duo of potato preparations described as the menu’s best. Overall the place projects a warm-hearted intent amid inconsistent plates, and early coverage even sparked discussion because two high-profile critics reviewed it within 24 hours, one of those write-ups provoking controversy for tone and behavior as much as for food." - George Reynolds