MICHELIN Guide Malta 2020 : Tmun, Gozo

"This family-owned Gozo gem earned a MICHELIN Plate in the first MICHELIN Guide Malta for "good cooking which has been carefully prepared." Set on Mġarr Harbour near the ferry terminal, the restaurant lives up to its name ("rudder") by serving the freshest fish and shellfish landed right outside. Owner Leli proudly presents the day’s catch and offers recommendations, then his son Paul—who nurtured a love of food from a young age, gained experience in kitchens abroad, and returned home—cooks it with finesse. The extensive, classic-leaning menu features spaghetti alle vongole, fish crudo, and a shareable bouillabaisse, with fish as the speciality—grilled, baked in salt, or baked in foil with olive oil and herbs—alongside local pork, lamb, chargrilled steaks, wholesome puddings, and homemade ice creams. Highlights for us included pristine sea urchin served on toast with a hint of garlic, a few flakes of chilli, and a creamy tomato sauce (three made the perfect portion on the owner’s advice), and a swordfish and red prawn crudo where the super-fresh swordfish melted in the mouth with a hot Szechuan edge while the sweet prawns were finely chopped with ginger, wasabi, and baked croutons. For dessert, Jane’s Cheesecake—named after Leli’s wife, with a classic cookie crumb base and light, sweet topping—lives up to its reputation as the signature. Choose the sun-drenched terrace overlooking brightly coloured boats bobbing on the fishing harbour or the immaculately kept, traditionally decorated dining room with the same view; a well-chosen list of local Maltese wines, friendly service, and a lively atmosphere make it a favourite with both tourists and locals." - Le Guide MICHELIN